Alejandra club founder:
When I started climbing over a decade ago, I bought a bunch of gear I never ended up using and a ton of gear I grew to hate. I didn’t know why you would choose one style of carabiner over another and I didn’t consider how to have multi-functional tools. So, these are my recommendations for a personal kit if you’re getting started and why I think they make sense. I am taking my AMGA Single Pitch Instructor exam in January and this is an opinion piece, please do your own research. *I do get pro-deals for working in the outdoor industry but receive no compensation for these recommendations.*
GOING UP
GriGri. No, I don’t think you need the Plus, you don’t need the Neox. GriGri adds additional safety to the climber, better progress capture than an ATC, more safety lowering and belaying from above, easy to use as an ascender in a rescue scenario and have been around for over 30 years. I like this oval K carabiner from Trango because it doesn’t cross- load while I’m belaying (and they match if that matters to you).
A 120cm nylon sling has become a staple on my harness since my SPI and Self Rescue course work. I use 1 double length nylon sling for personal anchor and rappel extension paired with an auto-locking carabiner like the Trango SuperFly for personal anchor connection (but any shape/size that makes you feel good).
RAPPEL
This is one of those, I had-to-buy-twice things because I didn’t think ahead. The Reverso instead of a regular ATC for rappelling if you ever think you will climb multi-pitch routes paired with an Auto-locking HMS carabiner. The wide, pear shape is rounded and designed for the rope to move easily through and the 2-step auto lock is easy enough to open with one hand plus the security of not vibrating and unscrewing itself during rappel. I prefer the Sterling Autoblock for a 3rd hand over a hollow block because it doesn’t bite *too* hard (13.5 inch loop, 6mm diameter).
2 small locking or D shaped carabiners (one for the third hand, one to hang the Reverso). These BD Hot Forge screw-gates are great for link/connection points and are really affordable in 3 packs
ANCHORS
The great debate we come across regarding quad anchors, “Do I need 4 locking carabiners” was best described to me as, “Would you make fun of your grandpa for wearing suspenders and a belt?” Basically if it makes your climbing buddy feel safer, just do it.
Again, Small D-shaped carabiners are fine for connection points (in this case cordelette to hanger) but not great for rope movement. For the masterpoint on your quad, opt for something like Petzl Attache Carabiners for the pear shape or Edelrid Bulletproof for top rope laps as the steel plate saves on wear.
18ft of Sterling Powercord for cordelette. 18 feet is more than enough for most quads and perfect for equalizing 3-piece anchors. Technora core with nylon sheath means more strength at lower volume, sold by the foot here. I prefer cordelette over a 240cm Dyneema sling because it is more modular; I can undie it if I need more (or less) length and it’s a bit cheaper than Dyneema.
Speaking of bulletproof… if you and your climbing partners agree, check out this modified draw anchor set that was gifted to me (shout out Nikolai Mihalko) and is my favorite option for quick top-rope setups. He replaced the rope end with Edelrid Bulletproof carabiners: one locker, one non-locker and a regular locking carabiner for the top of the other.
I love when I get up to the anchor, I can quickly clip the draws and the rope into one side without messing with a locking gate. The draw with 2 locking carabiners provides a ton of security.
Some disclaimers here: anchor bolts should be equal height so both carabiners on the rope end are sharing the load, bolts not further apart than will allow 30* angle between the two draws, and always place draws opposite and opposed, gates out.
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